In March, our Top 100 list was precisely that: One hundred wonderful and extraordinary restaurants, ones I thought represented the best of the Bay Area’s high-energy dining scene, its ethical yearnings and cultural nuances.
But then … the pandemic. And every restaurant on our original list was affected, faced with making some unbelievable changes. Most have been able to find ways to adapt and survive. Others, though, have chosen to close their doors, either temporarily or forever.
They were places where we spent hours lingering over ephemeral souffles and haute cuisine that somehow reminded us of home; where we listened to oral histories and the close murmurs of strangers sitting at elbows’ length from us. Each is a node of memories that we hold in communion with friends and loved ones.
At Benu, I recall the scratchiness of the vinyl records that provided dining room music; my colleague, meanwhile, still talks about how one course seemed like the most delicious carrot she’s ever eaten in her life.
This, then, is more an appreciation than a guide, a shout-out to 10 great area restaurants, some that have made the choice to close, and others that have been forced by factors such as fire. Let’s recognize and celebrate what they brought into our lives — and in some cases, might again.